Goroka Show held Independence Weekend 14th, 15th & 16th September, 2002

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TRAVEL THROUGH THE FASCINATING HIGHLANDS OF PNG - By Steven Mago

It’s been called wild, rugged and isolated but these descriptions become positive statements when you consider its sheer beauty, pristine wilderness. It’s a natural wonderland and perhaps, the place in PNG that should rightfully be given the title of “most colorful region.”

I am talking about the Highlands of PNG, a land that still intrigues many other non-Highlands Papua New Guineans as much as travelers from overseas.

With its towering, cool, cloud-covered mountain peaks, deep gorges, evergreen valleys and fast-flowing rivers, it is the region in PNG that is still very much untouched and unexplored.

Its people, who make up a third of the country’s population of nearly 5 million, are colorful and industrious, most of whom still live in villages and are predominantly agriculturalists who livelihood very depends on their relationship with each other and the land that they have inherited.

There are 5 Highlands Provinces in Southern Highlands, Enga, Western Highlands, Simbu and Eastern Highlands. When you take the scenic Okuk Highway (formerly Highlands Highway) from the coastal Morobean port and city of Lae, you reach the Eastern Highlands first, whose capital Goroka enjoys a all year around cool, almost eternal spring-like climate.

Goroka is famous for the Asaro mudmen of the fertile valley of the same name and the world famous Goroka Show, held in September every year to coincide with PNG’s Independence anniversary on September 16th.


Touch down at Goroka Airport
Photographs taken by Robert Akepa

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About two hours up the Daulo Pass is the rugged Simbu Province, known for its rough terrain and jazzed limestone mountain tops whose people, stocky warrior farmers, can be seen maneuvering mountainsides with relative ease on bare foot.

Simbu is perhaps best known for the highest mountain on the land in Mt Wilhelm, which at 4509 meters has attracted bush walkers, trekkers and mountaineers from far and wide. You only have to view the guest book at Betty’s Lodge and trout farm, situated at the foot of the mountain, to see where climbers have come from. There are entries from as far as Israel, Germany, France, Switzerland, Holland, Poland, and the United States of America.

Further up the idea is the vibrant city of Mt Hagen and capital of Western Highlands, a predominantly coffee growing region that has helped build up the economic wealth of the region. Mt Hagen is best known as home to the equally famous Mt Hagen Show, which is held in August every year. Like the Goroka Show, this show is one of PNG’s icon cultural spectacles and its brings together colorful and diverse tribes who partake in a weekend of cultural performances called “singsings.”

At it best, these cultural spectacles provide a myriad and kaleidoscope of colors and sounds from elaborately painted body and faces, intricately plumed bird of paradise feathers and the beating of kundu drums that pulsate beyond the arenas into the valleys.

Enga Province is home to the Enga Show, also held in August every year. Enga is also home to a rare species of orchid, dendrobium engae, which only occur in this part of the Highlands. Its uniqueness is such that the orchid is the provincial emblem and is found on the provincial flag. Enga is gaining popularity with birding and orchid enthusiasts from all over the world and two unique accommodation facilities in the province, Kaiap Orchid Lodge and Kumul Lodge, help to make Enga, PNG’s true high altitude orchid and bird wonderland.

Oil-rich Southern Highlands, the last of the Highlands territories to be explored, is home to the world-famous Ambua Lodge, renown for its efforts in conservation and promotion of birds and orchids, apart from cultural activities and singsings by the Huli Wigmen, whose colorful facial paintings, body decor and bird of paradise headdresses have captivated audiences all over the world.

You can choose to fly when visiting these destinations but flying does not give you a true appreciation of the immense beauty of this wonderland. The Highlands, whose lifeline has been the Okuk Highway, can easily be accessed by road and there is a good PMV (Public Motor Vehicle) network in place. In the last 10 years, this highway, which is used to transport vital Highlands crops to the coast for shipment overseas, and for bringing up much needed food and hardware from Lae and Madang, has deteriorated so badly, you are best advised to always engage the services of a known and recommended tour guide or tour company.


Topless Traditionally Dressed Miss Goroka Show Entrant

Miss Lass Wara

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Snake Dancers - Sinasina Village, Chimbu Province of Papua New Guinea

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Gorahanoto Singsing Group from Goroka, Eastern Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea

Like father like son :

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Lopone Singsing Group from Goroka

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Kafonaga Village Dancers - Goroka

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Mohonumi Singsing Group - Okuifa Village, Goroka

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Show official judging Miss Goroka Show 2002

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Dancer from Kafonaga Village, Bena, Goroka

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A man from Kafonaga Village - Bena area of Goroka, Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea