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aussie 05-12-2004 07:19 PM

Kokoda - the ultimate challenge for anyone looking for the adventure of a lifetime!
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When the Tourism Promotion Authority first suggested I go one step further with my pngbd website and help promote a PNG person to run their own business attracting tourists from overseas, I never thought for a second that it would lead one day to me walking the Kokoda Trail. However, in November 2004 I successfully completed a walk over the infamous trail that made me personally feel like I had just climbed Mt Everest.

The rush you feel when you finish is hard to compare to anything I have done in my entire life! The closest I can come is the birth of my four children. Someone asked me what was the toughest day...gee, everyday was tough! Each day another obstacle to get over or another hill to climb, combine that with many river crossings and the ultimate challenge for anyone and it all gets very exciting but challenging at the same time.

For my friend from Brisbane Beverley Howell and myself, Gail Thomas, we proved that you do not have to be young, an olympic athlete or sportsperson to complete the trail. We fit the ordinary working housewife over 50 category, who went looking for a thrill and a bit of history thrown in and we certainly found it on the Kokoda Trail or as some say Kokoda Track.

Many thanks also for the emails I have received congratulating me on my Kokoda Trek. The visits on my Kokoda Website the day I ended my walk totalled 985, so thanks to all of you who were checking up on me and wondering if I would at last make it out of the jungle in this case known as the infamous Kokoda Trail. Yes, I managed to walk the trail much to everyone's amazement as I do not fit into the 'super' fit category, nor the under 35's, nor the training for 12 months!
I work all day sitting behind a computer for the accounting firm of Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu here in Port Moresby as their Finance and Administration Manager. At night I sit and answer the many emails I receive daily on questions relating to all over PNG as well as the Kokoda Trail. So basically I lead a very unhealthy lifestyle going from one computer and a car ride to another computer in my home and if I am lucky in bed by midnight.

What makes this trek so unique is the following:
  • I turned 55 on the 7th December'04 and Bev is 65 and a proud 1/2
  • Neither of us are into sport, just trained for this trek
  • Bev has trekked a little before but for myself personally, this is a first!
  • I have never been on my feet standing for any length of time let alone walking for hours up and down hills, water crossings and the likes. Bev is a nurse so is used to being on her feet.
  • Neither of us has been on a trek where you walked for 9 days
  • We have never been in the jungles of New Guinea before despite both having lived here for many years.
  • We have never stayed in a village before
  • As for guesthouses, this is a first!
  • With regards to tents, the last time was as a teenager when I was 14 at Evans Head in Northern NSW.
  • Neither of us has lived on rations before
  • It was my first time to walk in boots except for the few training runs to Sogeri
  • Gaitors....what are they? do I really have to wear them?
  • The first time to walk with my guides and porters to see how they look after you the trekkers as well as myself
  • The first time I have ever walked across a river crossing
  • Overweight and not what one would consider fit.
etc etc

Deloitte Tower where I work on the 12th Floor situated in downtown Port Moresby. This became my training grounds for the past two months. Four times per week during lunch I would walk down then up one step at a time from the 12th Floor to the ground floor. Then back down again and back up every second step. Back down again and up one floor second step, one floor third step. Back down again and up once again one step at a time. Believe me at my fitness level, this is really quite tough but I continued to train and it got me successfully home across the kokoda trail:

If you are interested in walking the Kokoda Trail why not contact me:

Alternatively, please log onto our Kokoda Website:

We can also arrange shorter walks either around the Sogeri district with Eric Uwea our Koiari Guide or in Kokoda with Kokoda Trekking.

aussie 05-12-2004 07:28 PM

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How did I get into Kokoda Trekking you may well ask. Well it goes something like this..... in December 2000 when I was on holidays in Australia, I was amazed how much negativity there was towards PNG mainly wound up by the local and overseas know how journo's think....only drama sells newspapers. Gee if it was that bad, would I still be living and working here since 1972? Hence, in January, 2001, I decided to start a website on Papua New Guinea to promote the 'good' rather than the 'bad' and so my journey with my PNG website, began.

Around 15 months ago I was approached by the Tourism Promotion Authority and thanked for promoting PNG to the world. They asked me to go one step further and help PNG people who either did not have the know how and or resources to grow their own business. I said sure and they introduced me to Kokoda and Russell Eroro himself a veteran of some 287 treks spanning 12 years. Russell had worked for just about anyone and everyone. He has predominantly worked for Clive Baker, but also SP Tours, Frank Taylor, Narai Billy etc

This was his chance to stand on his own two feet and show the world he could run his own treks without an Australian present....well that is with the exception of myself who looks after this website and who answers your many emails and makes you feel welcome when you arrive here in PNG etc.

Russell Eroro seen here crossing Naoro Creek. In this particular trek he offered to be my 'personal porter' and many of our guides down graded themselves to food porters to share our last trek for 2004. Russell walked the whole way with his precious bush knife cutting and chopping as he went clearing anything in everything in his path. Even kids in Kokoda I see walk around with knives which would make us westerners scared stiff but in areas in PNG, this is the norm:

If trekkers insist, we have two expatriate experienced trekkers who will accompany you on the trail with our guides and porters but Kokoda Trekking have now taken over 400 + trekkers throughout 2004 and only 6 did not complete the whole trail. Costs would be around the $200.00 per day mark for this extra service but it can be arranged if you do not have faith in a 100% nationally run trek:

aussie 05-12-2004 07:32 PM

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In the beginning I was on uneven ground not knowing where to begin so I put something on my pngbd website about Kokoda. Before I could blink emails started flowing in at such a rate I soon found I needed a whole new website on Kokoda so I could get some sleep at night. Many people came to my rescue and helped provide the much needed information to satisfy your many questions. Jimmy who created my pngbd website designed the site and I became the interior decorator. and was soon established and we started taking our first trekkers over the trail. It was an exciting time for us as I personally entered unknown waters and yet another challenge in my life. Recently I was informed by Warren Bartlett (Executive Officer of the Kokoda Track Authority) that in 2004 we have taken more trekkers over the trail than any other trekking company which I feel is a proud achievement from a humble beginning but Russell and I have both worked hard at making this a success and always tried our best to give our trekkers the best experience possible.

Only one thing was missing......all our trekkers would ask.....Gail, have you walked the trail....the answer was always no, not yet, I got into this kinda by accident, do I look like a trekker? The reply more often than not, was, Gail, you just gotta do it!

Photograph: Our team when we stopped at Warren Bartlett's store at Sogeri so the boys could stock up on cigarettes etc before heading to Veselugo near Ower's Corner on the morning of the 13th November, 2004.

(left to right) Russell Eroro (Managing Director - Kokoda Trekking my JV Partner), Eric Uwea (Guide from Sogeri), Paulo Talanoa (Russell's nephew)- food porter, myself Gail Thomas, Kinglsey Boropi (Guide from Isurava)-this trek a food porter, Beverley Howell (my friend from Brisbane), our guide Chris Suma who in this trek acted as her 'Personal Porter' and in front, Syprian Heara (Guide from Kokoda) who was also one of our food porters:

Our t/shirts were done to promote our Kokoda 24 hour race where PNG people want to get the record back off Brian Freeman so it remains here in PNG. The race will be held on the 27 & 28th August, 2004. If you think you can beat Brian's time, the race is open to everyone who would like to enter ... GUESS WHO WILL NOT BE ENTERING THIS EVENT....I can only wonder how this is possible...24 hours, give me 9 days! Four of these guys have already put their names down to race and plan a practice run this month when they come into Port Moresby for some Christmas shopping:

aussie 05-12-2004 08:01 PM

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So at a Kokoda Meeting earlier this year chaired by Charlie Lynn, everyone in the room was asked to stand up who had walked the whole trail....80% stood up. Charlie then asked who would like to walk to stand up, I took up the challenge and stood up. That was all Russell Eroro & Eric Uwea needed to see. From that date onwards, my fate was sealed.....I was going to walk the Kokoda Trail in 2004 come rain, hail or shine!

During the morning Charlie showed a video about a group of students from Punchbowl High School who had trekked with him. I sat there and thought, gee what I have I let myself in for. Russell assured me, I would have the time of my life and that he would make sure I thoroughly enjoyed my kokoda experience and I would not suffer like those poor lads seemed to be doing in the documentary.

Ilyana Garap, Jessie Garap (our base radio operator) and myself take to the hills of Sogeri in training for my Kokoda Trek. Many thanks must go to Eric Uwea for his patience in walking me around town and in Sogeri to make sure I would make it to Kokoda:

aussie 05-12-2004 08:04 PM

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So my training began two months ago when I started walking up and down the 12th floor to the ground of where I work at Deloitte Tower in downtown Port Moresby. Every lunch hour 4 times a week and every day during the past few weeks I sweated and climbed up and down those stairs.

One day Pam Christie (PNG Trekking Adventure Tours) turned up at the front reception counter and announced my personal trainer was there to see me. When I walked out Pam said, I am here to do the stairs with, my own personal trainer!

Walking up and down step by step I thought I had been doing ok.....but no, Pam had me walking down and up one step at a time. The next time down I had to walk up every 2nd step...then down again. The next time up, every third step and so on. If you are not fit, believe me this is a very BIG ASK!!! I begged, am I going to need to reach for this 3rd step equivalent on the Kokoda Trail. Pam replied, if you want to enjoy your trek, yes you had better start practising.

My training had BEGUN!!! My fellow workmates thought I had gone CRAZY or as they say here in PNG (long long). The Managing Partner Paul Barber remarked one day where are you off to, I replied to walk the stairs. I asked if he wanted to join me and he replied, DO I LOOK STUPID? Another Partner Andrew Crompton saw me walking along the road late one afternoon and asked if walking the stairs had done something to my head....I mean this is definitely not the Gail they had known for so many years of their lives......

When it came to various parts along the trek like this log crossing, I said to myself many times....Deloitte 3rd step ... yes Pam, I really did need to practice reaching for the 3rd step...tks for the tip:

aussie 05-12-2004 08:06 PM

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Somewhere in amongst all my training, an old friend from Lae days by the name of Beverley Howell a nursing sister who worked at Angau for many many years as the night superintendant asked if she could join me on the trail...wait for it, Bev is now a proud 65 and a half years of age but contrary to myself still works in a hospital 3 days a week so is used to being on her feet for long periods. Bev soon joined my private trek and the planning soon began.

On the afternoon of the 12th November, Bev arrived in PNG and overnighted at my home. The following morning we were up at the crack of dawn (the first of many to come) and headed towards Veselugo to commence our Kokoda Track journey. I drove the Hilux and Bev remarked on a couple of occasions, I could never do this, I could never drive a vehicle on this road. However, I loved the thrill and thoroughly enjoyed my drive out to the starting point. The boys in the back probably wished they had Gava behind the wheel but I managed ok in terrible conditions and we soon arrived to commence the journey of a lifetime.

Beverley Howell and myself Gail Thomas seen here on the Kokoda Trail with our guide and food porter on this occasion, Eric Uwea from Sogeri:

aussie 05-12-2004 08:07 PM

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Day 1 - Port Moresby to Veselugo by road transport. Then by foot for a three hour walk to Ower's Corner followed by another couple of hours to where we overnighted at Uberi Creek:

On the way out to Veselugo, Bev wanted to stop and have her photograph taken at McDonald's Corner. Bob McDonald checks our website every morning so will have a permanent grin on his face all day when he sees this tomorrow morning. Actually Bob phoned me tonight and I forgot to mention that we stopped and took a photograph.

For anyone who is interested, Bob has produced a small lightweight diary which can be purchased through me for $26.00 which includes postage to anywhere in Australia. If you are interested, please email me:

Chris & Bev at McDonald's Corner - 13th November, 2004:

aussie 05-12-2004 08:09 PM

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We finally reached our destination of Veselugo where we employed another two guys to act as food porters.

Our guys at Veselugo checking and packing the last minute things into their backpacks. In the foreground is Gava our IT guy who took over from Jimmy when he left to live in Australia. Gava drove our Hilux back into Port Moresby and I have since informed him on the trail, he is next on the trail so next year he had better get fit so he can trek:

aussie 05-12-2004 08:10 PM

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A short time later we all headed down towards Ower's Corner which even at that hour was quite hot and we soon built up a sweat. Dont ask me how I ended up with a uke'ule as I wouldnt have a clue how to play it.

Myself Gail (pen name aussie on pngbd & kokoda websites) heading off towards Ower's Corner to commence the trek of a lifetime!

aussie 05-12-2004 08:12 PM

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A short distance behind was Bev Howell and Russell Eroro:

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