FROM TARI TO PARIS & BACK

HEARD of a Huli Wigman casually strolling in the gardens of Paris with the Eiffel Tower hovering in the background on a glorious European spring day? I guess not.

Well, meet Paul Palia, who hails from not only one of Papua New Guinea’s remote districts but one of the world’s most culturally rich and fascinating places – Tari in the Southern Highlands Province.

A typical Huli wigman in a typical Huli world, Palia’s life was to change forever in 2001, following a chance encounter with French travel writer and magazine publisher Marc Doza.

“Mi bilas tumbuna na mi raun stap long Tari, nau mi lukim dispela waitman em makim kamera long mi na kisim piksa bilong mi (I was dressed in traditional dress and was walking around Tari when I saw this white man aim his camera at me and take a shot),” he recalled in Tok Pisin. Palia instantly demanded payment from Doza but when he realized Doza’s face growing red with fear he smiled calmly at him and communicated the best he could to Doza that he was only joking. Hence, a connection between Tari and Paris was born and is still strong today.

MONDIJA KEPANGA (Left) and PAUL PALIA about to try their hand at snow skiing accompanied by a guide on the slopes of Mount Grenoble.

Instead of sleeping in the comforts of the lodge, Doza took his bag and followed Palia to his village hamlet.

Palia made the best bed he could for his guest and over the next few days, Doza was initiated into the Huli Wigman’s way of life.

“Mi bilasim em olsem wanpela wigman na em kaikai, raun na silip waitaim mi. Taim em laik go bek, em olsem barata b’long mi na mi sore na mi kilim pik na wokim mumu na em kakai na gobek long ples bilong em( I dressed him like a wigman and he ate, moved around and slept with me. When he wanted to return, he was like a brother and I was so sad I killed a pig and made a feast for him before he returned home),” said Palia.

Paul Palia (Left), Philip Kesi, Mondija Kepanga and Marc Doza off to another visit in the city of Grenoble

In his Hiwanda village, Palia learnt with a sad heart from others that two terrorist-controlled jumbo jets had crashed into the Twin Towers of the World Trade Centre, killing thousands of people.

He was worried because he couldn’t imagine his friend Doza being involved in that terrible tragedy. Then in 2002, Palia received a facsimile message from Doza, asking if he wanted to go to Paris.

Following much planning and communication, Palia, another Huli wantok Mondija Kepanga and their Chimbu friend Philip Kesi left PNG in November 2003 for Paris via Singapore – Each of their K17, 000 return fares fully paid by Doza.

Philip Kesi (left) and Paul Palia with Marc Doza's parents and brothers and sisters at the family home in Paris

And while Doza never told them to bring traditional costumes and headdresses, Palia and his friends took a trunk full because they felt this was their opportunity to educate the white man of their traditional cultures.

“Mipela laik ol mas save long custom bilong Papua Niugini (We wanted them to know about customs of Papua New Guinea),” he said.

Mondija Kepanga (left) and Paul Palia take a stroll in the park with France guide Zahia Hafs (on mobile phone) with the Majestic Eiffel Tower hovering in the background.

Of course, Paris was a totally new experience – it was fast, colorful and weird, especially for Palia who had never ventured beyond the tribal hills of his native Tari Basin.

Despite its chilly and cool climate, Palia, Kepanga and Kesi were an instant hit as they moved around Paris in their traditional dress. They were invited to schools, interviewed on Television, appeared in newspapers and magazines.


The le dauphine LIBERE newspaper in the City of Grenoble had a colorful frontpage picture of Palia and Kepanga in their traditional dress and wig, boasting that it was an exclusive.

Paul Palia (left) Marc Doza and Mondija Kepanga all take a breather on the sidewalks of Paris outside the Renaissance Cafe.

In the snowy mountains of Grenoble, the three Papua New Guineans held snow in their hands for the first time and realised there were much colder places on this earth than the Highlands of PNG.

On the top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, Palia said their eyes could only see so far but it was quite windy at the top and mist seemed to camouflage the City of Paris.

Palia said everywhere they went they shared the Papua New Guinea experience with their hosts and encouraged them to visit our country.

It's time to cool down at the watering hole while enjoying a game of pool and Mondija Kepanga takes aim with his cue and Paul Palia looks on on.

He said despite his lack of education and knowledge of the outside world, he knew his identity remained with him in his wig and costumes, which he treasured during the four months with his friends in France.

As a result of the meetings with many families and friends in Paris, Palia says about 10 of his new found friends will be visiting PNG sometime in August 2004.

Even France babies are not scared of a Huli Wigman as this child proves with a smile of approval from the mother as his cuddle by Paul Palia

Palia says he may never visit Paris again but proof of his trip lies in the copy of the le dauphine LIBERE, which he has a copy and the hundreds of treasured photos in his album.

Ends

Paul Palia (left), Marc Doza and Mondija Kepanga are dwarfed by the majestic Eiffel Tower

Colin,

This is 'the' heart-warming, breathtaking, and beautiful life story worth telling.

There's always a brighter side to everything: from the Tari's roaming the streets of POM and, causing mayhem in Gordons market and Gerehu, and this: exhibition of beautiful, time-honored treasure -- cultural capital -- of the Tari people as it is supposed to be.

Thanks for sharing it Colin.

23 June 2004

This is a truly uplifting and heart-warming story. Might I also commend the photography … the shot of the threeo (the very last photograph) in front of the Eiffel Tower is just spectacular!

Thanks for sharing this story with us.

I'm always impressed with PNGeans who go abroad but still maintain and know their real identity. It's a pity the younger generations who go overseas tend to imitate the westerners way of life, pick up the accent as a "norm" and enjoy the comforts there.

There are others who have gone overseas for study who have returned and are doing ALL their bests to help develope this country.

There's no place like HOME when you're overseas and theres only one PNG .......

:) WOW!
Im really impressed about this article...I enjoyed it very much...